To find out where's Sharm el Sheik's heart beats fastest you have to take the plunge. Its glittery jewel lies underwater in the Ras Mohamed marine reserve. Whether you're looking to hitch a ride on a passing Manta ray, scare yourself witless in the shark gallery or opt for a more sedate nose around the minutiae of the coral gardens, it's got the lot.
Night time sees the intrepid heading into the desert to hook up with a Bedouin camp, get a bonfire going and do some serious star gazing(the desert is chilly at night, so wrap up). In the unlikely event of things moving a little to quickly, why not head up the coast to Dahab? - an infamous hippy hangover where life grinds to the pace of a snail.