When darkness falls and the city stops sweating; Mombasa begins to breathe easy. Sailing around the Old Harbour, cocktail in hand, underneath the lanteen sail of an Arab dhow is the best way to cool off and take in the ruby sunsets.
If you want things to hot up again Mombasa has a burgeoning clubbing scene and although Toyz( Baluchi Street) is the current favourite, for a more local flavour - highlife Congolese and Sega music, head down Moi Avenue to Salambo. One of the Old Town 's gems is Recoda( Nyeri street), recognised as the city's best Swahili restaurant its walls also serve as Mombasa 's unofficial social museum(hence the name).
To get in touch with your primal side; head for the Shimba hills and the ultimate splurge - The Shimba Lodge. Hanging among the treetops these Tarzanesque arboreal abodes mean that you're more than likely to wind up spending the night(or at least your balcony) with colonies of monkeys and passing bushbabys.